DDT4All – Installing & Using

Hardware Required

An ELM327 OBD2 diagnostics adapter. It can be either USB or WiFi, but it specifically needs to have an original PIC18F25K80 chip, also sometimes labeled as 25K80. I’m using this one. I recommend the USB version over the wireless versions due to ease of connection.

Be incredibly careful of Amazon search results. Visually check that it says that the unit contains the PIC18F25K80 chip. This is usually shortened to 25K80. Personally I prefer USB connected but you can also get Bluetooth and Wi-Fi ones too.

This company claims that theirs works with the “evilution smart car app”. lol.

If you get some knock-off copy, there is a chance it might not work and won’t communicate with the car. Search for the chip numbers above. You will also require a laptop running Windows. Plug it into your laptop and into the OBD2 port of the car.

Once it is plugged in, Windows will search for drivers. Use the disc provided with your ELM327. Once Windows says that everything is installed correctly, continue to the software.

Software Requirements

The DDT4All software that you can download here. I’ve used version 1.3.

Database

A DDT2000 database of Renault vehicles that you will need to source yourself. (don’t click on the flag below, wink wink).

You just the need the database. I’ve used the one from August 2017 but they also sell newer versions. I haven’t tried them.

Installing

Install the DDT4All software.

Unzip the DDT 2000 database and copy the ECU folder contents into the DDT4All ECUs folder.

If you don’t have a folder named ecus, make it.

Double click the DDT4All icon on the desktop to start it.

Connecting To The Car

Turn the ignition to the 1st position so the electrics are on but the engine is not running. On the PC, select the USB serial port. Tick the box to agree that you know that you can kill your car if you fuck things up. Click on the “Connected Mode” button.

You’ll get some text as it connects and then the DDT4All GUI window appears. In the top left of the screen, click on the magnifying glass over a QR code.

You get the option of how to connect to the car. The 453 uses CAN so click that.

After a little bit of a wait, the 2nd box on the left will be populated with the units that you can connect to.

If you wish to change any of the data, you must click on the Einstein face to enter expert mode.

Be careful with what data you change. If you don’t know for sure, make a note of what it was. You can now go through all of the controllers (in green) and read the configurations. Precise adaptations will be added to the site for you to follow.

When Coding Didn’t Work

Sometimes, the software says the coding has worked and all of the numbers and settings look fine…
…but it’s just not working. Undoing and redoing the coding often doesn’t work either.

In these situations, disconnect the battery for 5 minutes and reconnect. So far, this has fixed all of my non coding issues.

I Found Something You Don’t Have On This Site

Great, tell me what it is and I’ll add it. If it’s good, I’ll give you a free subscription.

I’m Aware That I Can Harm My Car If Badly Used

This is not an empty threat. Writing any options to your car can break it or a part of it.

Cars for different regions may have different options that are incompatible. Your software or hardware might be faulty and write the wrong coding. Everything might be working fine but something could glitch during writing.