450 Fortwo Earth Upgrade

Reduce electrical noise
Increase the efficiency of the spark plugs
Increase the efficiency of the engine
Increase the MPG
Give more power

The spark plug is a very simple device, it introduces a gap in a high voltage system to create a spark between two electrodes. This spark ignites the compressed fuel/air mix to create the combustion in the engine. Each spark plug is fed by an HT lead from a coil pack. What many people don’t realise is there is no cable taking the electric away from the plug. The engine block actually becomes a part of the circuit, creating a route for the power to return to the battery.If the engine earthing lead is degraded or poorly connected it can restrict the flow and therefore lessening the spark at the plugs. A lesser spark means lesser combustion when you need it. Lesser combustion means a lower performance and higher fuel usage per mile. Simply by upgrading the earth cable and increasing the connection you can unleash a greater potential from your plugs.

Background

For years now, owners of Japanese cars have been upgrading their earth cables, quite often being the first mod they do. It releases extra power from the engine, increases torque and mpg.

People who are serious about car audio also upgrade the earth leads to negate the electrical noise, the more surface area the cable has, the more power it can carry. They also upgrade the battery earth and alternator earth. This increases the flow to and from the battery allowing more power to reach the audio equipment. A good power cable is essential but a good earth cable is even more important, without it you get electrical noise over the speakers from the alternator and the coil packs.

Upgrading The Engine Earth

This is the replacement earth lead that I made, it’s flexible rubber covered multistrand cable with a 25mm square surface area. The lugs are crimped on with a proper hexagonal die using an 8 ton hydraulic crimper. Both ends are sealed with adhesive lined heatshrink and all joints are coated in electrical contact paste.

The original earth is connected to the body just inside the engine bay.

You will almost certainly find an old, tired, tarnished looking earth cable like this.

Using a ratchet and a 10mm socket, remove the nut and pull the earth cable off.

To undo the other end you will either need a flexidrive or a universal joint.

The other end of the earth strap is connected to the engine via the exhaust braket.
You will need an E11 or E12 socket. Remove the bolt and remove the earth cable.

Here are the two cables together.

Dab each connection with a bit of copper grease, this will help maintain a better joint,
will fight against corrosion and will seal the two parts together. Loosly attach one end of the earth cable…

…and loosly attach the other end.
Routing of the cable is up to you but I found going under the TIK and over the crossmember worked well as it kept it clear of the exhaust.

When you are happy with the routing of the cable, tighten up both ends and go for a test drive.

Snapped/Stripped Body Earth Stud

The body stud is only an M6 thread and a 10mm nut and this stud is spot welded to the car. It is important that you don’t over-do it when you tighten the nut up. The maximum suggested torque for an M6 bolt (non high tensile) is about 4Nm which isn’t very much at all.

If you do snap or strip the thread from this stud, you will have to drill a hole in the body next to the original stud and place a new M6 bolt through the hole. I recommend using a high tensile steel bolt, bare the paintwork back to the metal on the back of the hole and use a washer on the new bolt. Use another washer on the front, then the earth cable lug, then the new nut. Tighten to about 5Nm and spray paint the head of the bolt to protect the bare paint.

Snapped Engine Earth Bolt

Marcus G had an issue where the bolt holding the earth cable to the engine snapped as it was being removed.
He said, if this bolt feels tight and you are worried about it snapping (leaving your engine unearthed) then try removing the bolt just below it first. Use penetrating fluid and use a wind-out/wind-in motion when removing it.

This lower point is ok to use for the replacement earth lead, however, now you know that one comes out and can be used for earthing, you can use a little bit more force trying to remove the top bolt. Even if you can’t, the worst case scenario is you either have both earth leads fitted or snip the old one off at the base.

Oscar S snapped the engine earth bolt so used one of the larger gearbox bolts. He had to drill the earth cable lug open so the bolt would fit through and use a washer so the head didn’t interfere with the lug.

Upgrading The Battery EarthPull back the carpet on the passenger side and remove the polystyrene block.
The brown cable from the negative terminal to the body is the one we will replace. Using a 10mm socket, remove each end of the lead from the car.

Clean up both connection points ready for the new lead.

Fit the battery terminal facing towards the seat and tighten down with a 13mm socket.
Attach the spade connector to the stud at each and and tighten down securely.

The battery connection should be orientated upside down.

Type in your radio code and replace the polystyrene foot block. Job done.

Engine Earth Conclusion

Although I was sceptical I really did feel a difference, the engine note was ever so slightly different and after two tanks of petrol have seen an increase of 15 miles per tank under my ‘normal’ driving style. I have supplied a few engine earths and kits to people and they have all agreed that there seems to be an improvement in power delivery and smoothness, some even say the engine sounds different.